Bug HLG

--- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "John" <gldrgidr@m...> wrote: > Jason, > That's incredible!! How did you do it? Give us some more details. > How about some photos? > > John > > Photos will follow later this week (left the digicam at the office). Well, 'cuz you asked.... here are some (hopefully controversial enough to spawn some discuusion)details: First let me say that I differ from the popular notion that the way to improve on the BUG's performance is to add a DLG style x-tail and chuck it higher. While this is UNQUESTIONABLY the way to maximize dead air time in a 60" competion class DLG contest, I don't think this style of building or flying makes maximum use of the BUG's most desirable qualities which are its LIGHT WEIGHT (if built "correclty") and RADICAL manouverablilty (again if built "correctly"). I concede that a 60" DLG launched to 100 feet is going to outfly a 60" DLG launched to 40 feet, But I contend that a 2.5 oz BUG launched to 20 feet will outfly a 3.5 to 4oz BUG launched to 60 feet (which I can't see anybody launching a BUG to without blowing it apart). So, I prefer to leave the v-tail for maximum tail lightness and to allow the use of a light (4g) Kokam 145mAh cell for juice. Most importantly, the use of the v tail and a gentle javelin or side-arm (NOT DLG) launch allows the use of smaller dimeter (LIGHTER)tailbooms which is where the MAJOR weight savings is to be had. I've already posted on this in the past and stirred the pot a bit. Many others contend that the 1/8" CF tube I favor is too sloppy--maybe if your trying to full force discus launch. Anyway, you can look up details of this discussion in previous posts. So, the fun of the BUG is in my opinion building lite and manouverable and having fun down to 10 and 20 feet altitude where thermals form tight and fast. I suspect that not even a top of the line 60" DLG can work the bubbles this gem can at 10 feet off the deck. So, the major departurs in the way I build my BUGS are: 1. Contest wood only. 2. Use of Modelairtech Clearfilm for covering and WBPU on bare wood. No Color. 3. Use of CST's 1/8" cf for tailbooms 4. single cell Kokam 145 cell from www.b-p-p.com 5. positioning all gear forward of foremost bulkhead for balance. 6. GWS pico rx and pico BB servos 7. extended wing as described in other posts 8. Vtail (NO DLG style tails-- I built one and the lightest i could do is 6g compared to the 2g vtail. That 4g diff takes about 12-15g more weight in the nose to balance. 9. don't cover any part of the fuselage with f/glass. It's too heavy. Try this-- 3M-77 forward of the wing LE, then apply 3M tartan crystal clear packing tape (1mil thick). Then iron down. VERY Strong and on ly adds 1g. Cover the nose forward to the EPP block (see below), then coat with goop. A point of interest is that in order to get her to balance with the single Kokam 145 cell, I had to put the Rx, batery and both GWS pico BB servos forward of the foremost bulkhead. That leaves the entire compartment under the wing empty (except of course for the pushrods). As this compartment is right under the CG it'll make a perfect ballast box should I wish to fly at the more usual wingloads of 3-4 oz/sq. ft. Another GREAT innovation has been the replacement of the nose balsa block with EPP foam sanded to shape, spackled and coated with marine GOOP thinned with toluene. VERY smooth and resilient. This cushions MAJOR landing impact and never chips and dents like the balsa block does. Try it-- you'll never go back. I'll post photos later. For the time being, I'm going to have fun seeing what a tip- launchable, extremely nimble glider can do at under 2oz/sq/ft. Should be lots of fun