Bug HLG

Chris, That is very similar to what I do, but if you add an extra third rib don't you have to adjust the spar holes? I would also like to know how to make a pod mold like you have. Did you make it in two halves and glue it together? I have the material now (no thanks to some all talk people on this group that were going to send all kinds of things for free --- I insisted on paying but I never heard from them after that). Anyway, I am stumped in making the mold. Any help would be appreciated. John --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Lewis" <christopherlewis@e...> wrote: > Henry - Are you building from the full size plans? Is so, there's a > dihedral gauge that I copied and pasted to a scrap of balsa to get my > R1 angle correct. I always install this rib last and make sure the > angle is just right. > > For the LE notch, I bought a 1/8" rat-tail file and use it to form a > perfect notch every time. > > Here's my wing building method. Keep in mind that I add an extra R3 > every time, so none of the printed spar holes are in the right place > except the first and last rib, so I drill them one at a time. > > 1. Photo copy the rib forms and cut out with scissors (Make an extra > R3) > 2. Spray with 3M 77 and attach to balsa sheet. > 3. Rough cut each rib and sand to exact shape following photcopy > lines. > 4. Use file to make LE 1/2 round notch. > 5. Mark trailing edge with rib spacing and attach to board w/tape. > 6. Mark and drill spar hole in R2 and R7. Peel paper pattern off. > 7. Glue R2 in place at TE and spar (I always run spar all the way to > the end of the tip plate if you plan to SAL). > 8. Slide R7 onto spar, do not glue. > 9. For each internal rib, I lay it in place, mark the spar location, > drill spar hole and then install (removing and reinstalling R7 each > time). I glue the TE and the spar hole only, leaving the LE until the > wing is built. Use a square gauge to make sure the ribs are staight. > 10. Once the wing half is built, I glue on the tip plate. I use 1/8" > balsa w/o lightening holes since I grab the tip for SAL. I usually > have to file a groove for the spar at the tip so that the bottom > surfaces of R7 and the tip plate line up. > 11. Install R1 using the dihedral gauge. Remove from board and sand > top and bottom of R1 flat to the other ribs w/sanding block. > 12. Starting at R1, lay the 1/8" dowel LE into the notches and secure > with CA. > 13. Trim dowel at tip as shown and sand to fine bevel. Fill tip with > light contest balsa and sand to match airfoil. This makes a good > thumb grip for SAL. Do both sides for balance and leftie/rightie > capability. > 14. Install sheeting at R1-R2. > 15. Harden edge of tip balsa with thin CA to prevent dings. > 16. Repeat 1-15 for other wing. > 17. Glue halves, reincorce w/FG > 18. Cover. > > Different builders will have different methods, so take these steps > as a guideline. I've built many of these wings and have had no > problems at all (my first plane is still flying in it's second season > with my kids learning to fly on this plane last year). They all turn > out true and flat and any minor twists can be dealt with when > covering. > > This is a great little plane. You'll enjoy it. I always use a > cruciform tail and get nice straight launches w/o preset or mixing to > 50-75 feet. I use a modified plastic pod and call mine a Lil' Bugger > (1/2 Little Nipper, 1/2 Bug) translates wierdly from American to Kiwi > but it's a fun plane (see LN photo section). > > http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/littlenipper/lst?.dir=/Lil% > 27+Bugger&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http% 3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/ > > Enjoy! > > Chris in Seattle, USA > > > --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@x> wrote: > > I think I will try to make the parts myself, since this will be > good > > exercise anyway. I would appreciate it if you can give me some > > pointers, since this is my 1st scratch built (I fly EPP slopers). > > > > I actually have made 1 set of wing but I am really unhappy about it > > so I am going to remake it. The problems I have encountered are: > > > > 1. The notch for the LE dowel - how can I cut this accurately? > > Inaccuracies have led to the dowel not sitting on the same > horizontal > > plane) with the spar (is this normal?) and one of the ribs needing > > some lengthening for it to reach the LE. I presume if properly made > > the LE, spar and TE will lie on the same horizontal plane? The > crappy > > wing set I have is obviously twisted. > > > > 2. The root rib dihedral angle. At first glance it appears simple > but > > once the two wing halves are made the two sides don't seem to meet > > each other too well. I tried to sand the root rib with a block / > bar > > sander but really the results are not too good. I wonder what are > the > > tricks necessary to achieve a perfect wing joint with the right > > dihedral. What's worst, when I was trying to sand the wing halves I > > manage to damage them - hence new set of wings needed. > > > > 3. Related to 2 - I guess problem 2 can be solved if I can cut > > correct bevels top and bottom of the root rib? But how can that be > > achieved? > > > > 4. Wing center sheeting. Because of W1 being slanted the sheeting > > does not want to sit flat esp in the front part. > > > > 5. It may sound silly but how do you keep the ribs parallel during > > your construction, esp during the LE glueing? > > > > 6. What tool do you use to cut that perfect lightening hole in the > > wing tip? Also would a laminate of 2 1/16" tip works better than a > > single 1/8" tip? > > > > I think if I am not too picky most of the above problems will > > probably be ok as long as they are symmetrical, except the center > > wing joint which I just cannot get right! > > > > > > Thanks for any suggestions > > > > Henry