Bug HLG

Understand that this is just my opinion, but I think that the plastic pod is the worst design feature of the Little Nipper. It takes a lot of effort and time to produce the first good pod. You have to carve a mold and learn to heat the PETG at just the right temperature and heat the plastic sheet uniformly so that you get a pod that doesn't have thin areas. All of this could easily become more of a project than building the entire plane. And when you do get a good pod you are forced to install the servos to the wing instead of a distance in front of the wing where their weight can be used to balance the weight of the tail. The see-thru fuse also doesn't help with making the plane visible at altitude. I built a balsa pod for my nipper and it was lighter even with a layer of .75 oz. fiberglass to make it crash resistant. I could have built several balsa pods in the time it took to get a good plastic pod. I also think that installing all the radio gear in the fuse makes it a lot neater package - one piece wing mounts to one piece fuse. The see-thru pod is very inovative looking and this may make it worth the effort for some, but not for me. John --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "John Gospodarek" <John.Gospodarek@i...> wrote: > Chris, > Thanks for the reply. Very nice explanation! I have seen several on > the LN Group and yours is very complete. I have the petg and have a > good idea of how to pull the pod. My problem is how to make the > mold. Do you make two half molds from the root rib template and glue > them together? I am not a good carver and am not sure how to get the > angle correct and a good fit, if I don't do it that way. I have even > considered making a foam mold first and doing a FG lay-up over it. > The mold is the stopping point for me. > > John > > > --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Lewis" <christopherlewis@e...> > wrote: > > John - Sorry to hear that you didn't have folks come through for > pod > > material. Next time send me a PM and I'm more than happy to help > if I > > happen to have surplus material on hand. My first couple of pieces > > came through the mail, but I burned through them quickly while > > learning. It's just as well that you have a quantity since pod > > pulling is as much art as science. > > > > The pod is one piece of .060 PETG heated over a stove burner and > > pulled over a form. I use a piece about 6.5" x 6.5 to 8" and use a > > couple of spruce sticks 1/4"x1/2"x7" along with a couple > of "binder > > clips" on each side to hold the plastic while heating. The key is > to > > heat slowly until the PETG is droopy, but not until large bubbles > > start to form. Heat thouroughly from edge to edge by moving across > > the burner. I have a pod mold very similar to the one shown in > Bruce > > Kimball's folder on the Little Nipper group. It has a carved, > sanded > > and faired poplar fuse shaped to my liking and about 3" of wing > shape > > attached to each side at the correct dihedral angle and LE shape. > It > > has a 1/4" steel rod drilled into the TE side so that I can mount > the > > form in a vise that is clamped right next to the stove. Once the > > plastic is floppy - Use gloves! you'll immediately want to > > pull it over the pod form and use your gloved hands to make sure > it > > gets into the corners where the fuse and wing stubs meet. It takes > > work and practice. Pull to fast and the PETG gets too thin. Too > slow > > and it cools and doesn't cover the pod mold. Be patient! Practice, > > Practice, Practice... > > > > Re-read my instructions and step 9 indicates the measure, mark and > > drill method for the intermediate rib spar holes. This extra > wingspan > > is crucial to gaining more float time. I don't use pins. I just > glue > > as I go with thin CA using a capillary tube to restrict glue > > application. Goes fast, works great. > > > > Keep in mind that going to the plastic pod means a total redesign > of > > the airplane. The servos must be recessed in the wing, a boom > mount > > must be fabricated, bolt anchors for the pod/boom mount must be > added > > to the wing, servo linkages changed, pod form built and a pod > pulled. > > Glassing the balsa pod, going to a cruciform tail (supergee > style), > > WPU for tail finishes and extending the wing are simpler mod's if > you > > are just looking to move up from the standard bug. It you like to > > tinker, go nuts. The Bug is an amazing platform to start from or > fine > > just as it is. > > > > After talking with Dick Barker of DLG fame, I might try making > this > > pod in two pieces using Vac-bag method and FG. But I've got a full > > sized Uplink to scratch build first. > > > > Hope that helps. > > > > Chris in Seattle

John - I'm not a great carver either. Your glass form should work but may take more effort to make and if you have a fit problem where the pod won't slip off of the mold (don't ask) you'll have to start all over, whereas a little more filing, sanding and bondo will save your first wood mold. Here's how I did it: From the home center store purchase the following: 1/2" x 4" x 24" Poplar (fairly hard, smooth grain, easy to work, no grain marks in pod.) Take a rasp and rough-in the approximate LE shape in one edge of the 1/2" Poplar. Move to finer files and then sand paper until the shape is pretty good. It does not need to be exact. Cut two sections 3" long with the appropriate dihedral angle and glue together with wood glue. Set aside to dry. Cut the 1" x 2" in half to make a 2"x 2"x12". Glue these halves together with wood glue and set aside. Draw an approximate shape of your pod. About 3-4" from the LE and about 1-1/2" behind the LE. Make the shape taper to fit your battery diameter at the nose to about 1-1/2" wide at the LE. From the LE back you need to transition to where the tail boom exits in a shape that will allow you to still slide the pod off the mold. A gentle taper, not too rounded. You'll know if you get this wrong when you have to cut the pod off of the mold. :( Once the "wing" portion has dried, I sand off the "V" on the lower side of the dihedral joint to make a nice flat surface to accept the pod portion. Place your pod plan side view on the side of your 2"x2" w/o the seam. You can use the seam that runs fore and aft to make sure that your right and left halves are the same distance from the center line. No matter how much you file or sand away, that seam will always show center in the right/left orientation. Rasp, file and sand the basic shape paying attention to how you'll merge the pod piece and the wing piece. The pod tends to angle down about 5-15% from horizontal. Many of our wives have referred to pods as "penis things". That should give you the idea. Once you're are done carving, glue the pod to the wing and set aside. Once this is dry you'll need some body filler (bondo) to make nice round fillets where the pod meets the wing on the underside of the wing and where the top of the pod transitions to the LE. The PETG will not go into sharp corners and we've found that relying on the natural stretch of the hot PETG to approximate those fillets leads to crappy results. Sand this very smooth and let the bondo cure completely. Drill a hole chordwise into the stubbed TE of your mold and glue in a metal rod (or two) that can be clamped in your vise. I have a hobby vise that clamps to the countertop next to the stove. I clamp the rod in the vise so that the nose is pointing straight up. Heat your PETG, pull the pod, let cool, remove, trim, sand trimmed edges, drill mounting holes, go flying! (refer to the Lil' Bugger photos in the LN group to see how mine is trimmed) Print off Bruce Kimball's pod photos in the LN group as a guide. Bruce makes wind tunnel models for Boeing and is a master craftsman. Note that the LN boom exits through the wing and not under the wing like the Bug, so you'll have to make an allowance for the boom to exit that doesn't show in Bruces photos. Hope that helps. Believe it or not, the form is the easy part. Pulling nice smooth pods that are not too thick or not too thin is the challenge. I still feel that I could do much better. If all else fails, call Scobie at Liftworx.com and ask him to sell you a Seeker pod. Also - Be sure to extend your spars to the wing tip for strength. I made my first wing per plan and had to go back and reinforce it. It just couldn't take the tip launch stress. My Lil' Bugger is on it's second full season and it spent hours being crashed by my 11 and 14 year olds. It has never needed more of a repair than something I could perform at the field and go right back to flying. I'm proud to say that crowds have gathered to figure out what my boys were crashing and then just tossing back into the air. You'd think it was a foamie! Chris in Seattle --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "John Gospodarek" < John.Gospodarek@i...> wrote: > Chris, > Thanks for the reply. Very nice explanation! I have seen several on > the LN Group and yours is very complete. I have the petg and have a > good idea of how to pull the pod. My problem is how to make the > mold. Do you make two half molds from the root rib template and glue > them together? I am not a good carver and am not sure how to get the > angle correct and a good fit, if I don't do it that way. I have even > considered making a foam mold first and doing a FG lay-up over it. > The mold is the stopping point for me. > > John > > > --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Lewis" < christopherlewis@e...> > wrote: > > John - Sorry to hear that you didn't have folks come through for > pod > > material. Next time send me a PM and I'm more than happy to help > if I > > happen to have surplus material on hand. My first couple of pieces > > came through the mail, but I burned through them quickly while > > learning. It's just as well that you have a quantity since pod > > pulling is as much art as science. > > > > The pod is one piece of .060 PETG heated over a stove burner and > > pulled over a form. I use a piece about 6.5" x 6.5 to 8" and use a > > couple of spruce sticks 1/4"x1/2"x7" along with a couple > of "binder > > clips" on each side to hold the plastic while heating. The key is > to > > heat slowly until the PETG is droopy, but not until large bubbles > > start to form. Heat thouroughly from edge to edge by moving across > > the burner. I have a pod mold very similar to the one shown in > Bruce > > Kimball's folder on the Little Nipper group. It has a carved, > sanded > > and faired poplar fuse shaped to my liking and about 3" of wing > shape > > attached to each side at the correct dihedral angle and LE shape. > It > > has a 1/4" steel rod drilled into the TE side so that I can mount > the > > form in a vise that is clamped right next to the stove. Once the > > plastic is floppy - Use gloves! you'll immediately want to > > pull it over the pod form and use your gloved hands to make sure > it > > gets into the corners where the fuse and wing stubs meet. It takes > > work and practice. Pull to fast and the PETG gets too thin. Too > slow > > and it cools and doesn't cover the pod mold. Be patient! Practice, > > Practice, Practice... > > > > Re-read my instructions and step 9 indicates the measure, mark and > > drill method for the intermediate rib spar holes. This extra > wingspan > > is crucial to gaining more float time. I don't use pins. I just > glue > > as I go with thin CA using a capillary tube to restrict glue > > application. Goes fast, works great. > > > > Keep in mind that going to the plastic pod means a total redesign > of > > the airplane. The servos must be recessed in the wing, a boom > mount > > must be fabricated, bolt anchors for the pod/boom mount must be > added > > to the wing, servo linkages changed, pod form built and a pod > pulled. > > Glassing the balsa pod, going to a cruciform tail (supergee > style), > > WPU for tail finishes and extending the wing are simpler mod's if > you > > are just looking to move up from the standard bug. It you like to > > tinker, go nuts. The Bug is an amazing platform to start from or > fine > > just as it is. > > > > After talking with Dick Barker of DLG fame, I might try making > this > > pod in two pieces using Vac-bag method and FG. But I've got a full > > sized Uplink to scratch build first. > > > > Hope that helps. > > > > Chris in Seattle

Chris, Thanks for the reply. Very nice explanation! I have seen several on the LN Group and yours is very complete. I have the petg and have a good idea of how to pull the pod. My problem is how to make the mold. Do you make two half molds from the root rib template and glue them together? I am not a good carver and am not sure how to get the angle correct and a good fit, if I don't do it that way. I have even considered making a foam mold first and doing a FG lay-up over it. The mold is the stopping point for me. John --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Lewis" <christopherlewis@e...> wrote: > John - Sorry to hear that you didn't have folks come through for pod > material. Next time send me a PM and I'm more than happy to help if I > happen to have surplus material on hand. My first couple of pieces > came through the mail, but I burned through them quickly while > learning. It's just as well that you have a quantity since pod > pulling is as much art as science. > > The pod is one piece of .060 PETG heated over a stove burner and > pulled over a form. I use a piece about 6.5" x 6.5 to 8" and use a > couple of spruce sticks 1/4"x1/2"x7" along with a couple of "binder > clips" on each side to hold the plastic while heating. The key is to > heat slowly until the PETG is droopy, but not until large bubbles > start to form. Heat thouroughly from edge to edge by moving across > the burner. I have a pod mold very similar to the one shown in Bruce > Kimball's folder on the Little Nipper group. It has a carved, sanded > and faired poplar fuse shaped to my liking and about 3" of wing shape > attached to each side at the correct dihedral angle and LE shape. It > has a 1/4" steel rod drilled into the TE side so that I can mount the > form in a vise that is clamped right next to the stove. Once the > plastic is floppy - Use gloves! you'll immediately want to > pull it over the pod form and use your gloved hands to make sure it > gets into the corners where the fuse and wing stubs meet. It takes > work and practice. Pull to fast and the PETG gets too thin. Too slow > and it cools and doesn't cover the pod mold. Be patient! Practice, > Practice, Practice... > > Re-read my instructions and step 9 indicates the measure, mark and > drill method for the intermediate rib spar holes. This extra wingspan > is crucial to gaining more float time. I don't use pins. I just glue > as I go with thin CA using a capillary tube to restrict glue > application. Goes fast, works great. > > Keep in mind that going to the plastic pod means a total redesign of > the airplane. The servos must be recessed in the wing, a boom mount > must be fabricated, bolt anchors for the pod/boom mount must be added > to the wing, servo linkages changed, pod form built and a pod pulled. > Glassing the balsa pod, going to a cruciform tail (supergee style), > WPU for tail finishes and extending the wing are simpler mod's if you > are just looking to move up from the standard bug. It you like to > tinker, go nuts. The Bug is an amazing platform to start from or fine > just as it is. > > After talking with Dick Barker of DLG fame, I might try making this > pod in two pieces using Vac-bag method and FG. But I've got a full > sized Uplink to scratch build first. > > Hope that helps. > > Chris in Seattle

John - Sorry to hear that you didn't have folks come through for pod material. Next time send me a PM and I'm more than happy to help if I happen to have surplus material on hand. My first couple of pieces came through the mail, but I burned through them quickly while learning. It's just as well that you have a quantity since pod pulling is as much art as science. The pod is one piece of .060 PETG heated over a stove burner and pulled over a form. I use a piece about 6.5" x 6.5 to 8" and use a couple of spruce sticks 1/4"x1/2"x7" along with a couple of "binder clips" on each side to hold the plastic while heating. The key is to heat slowly until the PETG is droopy, but not until large bubbles start to form. Heat thouroughly from edge to edge by moving across the burner. I have a pod mold very similar to the one shown in Bruce Kimball's folder on the Little Nipper group. It has a carved, sanded and faired poplar fuse shaped to my liking and about 3" of wing shape attached to each side at the correct dihedral angle and LE shape. It has a 1/4" steel rod drilled into the TE side so that I can mount the form in a vise that is clamped right next to the stove. Once the plastic is floppy - Use gloves! you'll immediately want to pull it over the pod form and use your gloved hands to make sure it gets into the corners where the fuse and wing stubs meet. It takes work and practice. Pull to fast and the PETG gets too thin. Too slow and it cools and doesn't cover the pod mold. Be patient! Practice, Practice, Practice... Re-read my instructions and step 9 indicates the measure, mark and drill method for the intermediate rib spar holes. This extra wingspan is crucial to gaining more float time. I don't use pins. I just glue as I go with thin CA using a capillary tube to restrict glue application. Goes fast, works great. Keep in mind that going to the plastic pod means a total redesign of the airplane. The servos must be recessed in the wing, a boom mount must be fabricated, bolt anchors for the pod/boom mount must be added to the wing, servo linkages changed, pod form built and a pod pulled. Glassing the balsa pod, going to a cruciform tail (supergee style), WPU for tail finishes and extending the wing are simpler mod's if you are just looking to move up from the standard bug. It you like to tinker, go nuts. The Bug is an amazing platform to start from or fine just as it is. After talking with Dick Barker of DLG fame, I might try making this pod in two pieces using Vac-bag method and FG. But I've got a full sized Uplink to scratch build first. Hope that helps. Chris in Seattle

Chris, That is very similar to what I do, but if you add an extra third rib don't you have to adjust the spar holes? I would also like to know how to make a pod mold like you have. Did you make it in two halves and glue it together? I have the material now (no thanks to some all talk people on this group that were going to send all kinds of things for free --- I insisted on paying but I never heard from them after that). Anyway, I am stumped in making the mold. Any help would be appreciated. John --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Lewis" <christopherlewis@e...> wrote: > Henry - Are you building from the full size plans? Is so, there's a > dihedral gauge that I copied and pasted to a scrap of balsa to get my > R1 angle correct. I always install this rib last and make sure the > angle is just right. > > For the LE notch, I bought a 1/8" rat-tail file and use it to form a > perfect notch every time. > > Here's my wing building method. Keep in mind that I add an extra R3 > every time, so none of the printed spar holes are in the right place > except the first and last rib, so I drill them one at a time. > > 1. Photo copy the rib forms and cut out with scissors (Make an extra > R3) > 2. Spray with 3M 77 and attach to balsa sheet. > 3. Rough cut each rib and sand to exact shape following photcopy > lines. > 4. Use file to make LE 1/2 round notch. > 5. Mark trailing edge with rib spacing and attach to board w/tape. > 6. Mark and drill spar hole in R2 and R7. Peel paper pattern off. > 7. Glue R2 in place at TE and spar (I always run spar all the way to > the end of the tip plate if you plan to SAL). > 8. Slide R7 onto spar, do not glue. > 9. For each internal rib, I lay it in place, mark the spar location, > drill spar hole and then install (removing and reinstalling R7 each > time). I glue the TE and the spar hole only, leaving the LE until the > wing is built. Use a square gauge to make sure the ribs are staight. > 10. Once the wing half is built, I glue on the tip plate. I use 1/8" > balsa w/o lightening holes since I grab the tip for SAL. I usually > have to file a groove for the spar at the tip so that the bottom > surfaces of R7 and the tip plate line up. > 11. Install R1 using the dihedral gauge. Remove from board and sand > top and bottom of R1 flat to the other ribs w/sanding block. > 12. Starting at R1, lay the 1/8" dowel LE into the notches and secure > with CA. > 13. Trim dowel at tip as shown and sand to fine bevel. Fill tip with > light contest balsa and sand to match airfoil. This makes a good > thumb grip for SAL. Do both sides for balance and leftie/rightie > capability. > 14. Install sheeting at R1-R2. > 15. Harden edge of tip balsa with thin CA to prevent dings. > 16. Repeat 1-15 for other wing. > 17. Glue halves, reincorce w/FG > 18. Cover. > > Different builders will have different methods, so take these steps > as a guideline. I've built many of these wings and have had no > problems at all (my first plane is still flying in it's second season > with my kids learning to fly on this plane last year). They all turn > out true and flat and any minor twists can be dealt with when > covering. > > This is a great little plane. You'll enjoy it. I always use a > cruciform tail and get nice straight launches w/o preset or mixing to > 50-75 feet. I use a modified plastic pod and call mine a Lil' Bugger > (1/2 Little Nipper, 1/2 Bug) translates wierdly from American to Kiwi > but it's a fun plane (see LN photo section). > > http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/littlenipper/lst?.dir=/Lil% > 27+Bugger&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http% 3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/ > > Enjoy! > > Chris in Seattle, USA > > > --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@x> wrote: > > I think I will try to make the parts myself, since this will be > good > > exercise anyway. I would appreciate it if you can give me some > > pointers, since this is my 1st scratch built (I fly EPP slopers). > > > > I actually have made 1 set of wing but I am really unhappy about it > > so I am going to remake it. The problems I have encountered are: > > > > 1. The notch for the LE dowel - how can I cut this accurately? > > Inaccuracies have led to the dowel not sitting on the same > horizontal > > plane) with the spar (is this normal?) and one of the ribs needing > > some lengthening for it to reach the LE. I presume if properly made > > the LE, spar and TE will lie on the same horizontal plane? The > crappy > > wing set I have is obviously twisted. > > > > 2. The root rib dihedral angle. At first glance it appears simple > but > > once the two wing halves are made the two sides don't seem to meet > > each other too well. I tried to sand the root rib with a block / > bar > > sander but really the results are not too good. I wonder what are > the > > tricks necessary to achieve a perfect wing joint with the right > > dihedral. What's worst, when I was trying to sand the wing halves I > > manage to damage them - hence new set of wings needed. > > > > 3. Related to 2 - I guess problem 2 can be solved if I can cut > > correct bevels top and bottom of the root rib? But how can that be > > achieved? > > > > 4. Wing center sheeting. Because of W1 being slanted the sheeting > > does not want to sit flat esp in the front part. > > > > 5. It may sound silly but how do you keep the ribs parallel during > > your construction, esp during the LE glueing? > > > > 6. What tool do you use to cut that perfect lightening hole in the > > wing tip? Also would a laminate of 2 1/16" tip works better than a > > single 1/8" tip? > > > > I think if I am not too picky most of the above problems will > > probably be ok as long as they are symmetrical, except the center > > wing joint which I just cannot get right! > > > > > > Thanks for any suggestions > > > > Henry

Henry - Are you building from the full size plans? Is so, there's a dihedral gauge that I copied and pasted to a scrap of balsa to get my R1 angle correct. I always install this rib last and make sure the angle is just right. For the LE notch, I bought a 1/8" rat-tail file and use it to form a perfect notch every time. Here's my wing building method. Keep in mind that I add an extra R3 every time, so none of the printed spar holes are in the right place except the first and last rib, so I drill them one at a time. 1. Photo copy the rib forms and cut out with scissors (Make an extra R3) 2. Spray with 3M 77 and attach to balsa sheet. 3. Rough cut each rib and sand to exact shape following photcopy lines. 4. Use file to make LE 1/2 round notch. 5. Mark trailing edge with rib spacing and attach to board w/tape. 6. Mark and drill spar hole in R2 and R7. Peel paper pattern off. 7. Glue R2 in place at TE and spar (I always run spar all the way to the end of the tip plate if you plan to SAL). 8. Slide R7 onto spar, do not glue. 9. For each internal rib, I lay it in place, mark the spar location, drill spar hole and then install (removing and reinstalling R7 each time). I glue the TE and the spar hole only, leaving the LE until the wing is built. Use a square gauge to make sure the ribs are staight. 10. Once the wing half is built, I glue on the tip plate. I use 1/8" balsa w/o lightening holes since I grab the tip for SAL. I usually have to file a groove for the spar at the tip so that the bottom surfaces of R7 and the tip plate line up. 11. Install R1 using the dihedral gauge. Remove from board and sand top and bottom of R1 flat to the other ribs w/sanding block. 12. Starting at R1, lay the 1/8" dowel LE into the notches and secure with CA. 13. Trim dowel at tip as shown and sand to fine bevel. Fill tip with light contest balsa and sand to match airfoil. This makes a good thumb grip for SAL. Do both sides for balance and leftie/rightie capability. 14. Install sheeting at R1-R2. 15. Harden edge of tip balsa with thin CA to prevent dings. 16. Repeat 1-15 for other wing. 17. Glue halves, reincorce w/FG 18. Cover. Different builders will have different methods, so take these steps as a guideline. I've built many of these wings and have had no problems at all (my first plane is still flying in it's second season with my kids learning to fly on this plane last year). They all turn out true and flat and any minor twists can be dealt with when covering. This is a great little plane. You'll enjoy it. I always use a cruciform tail and get nice straight launches w/o preset or mixing to 50-75 feet. I use a modified plastic pod and call mine a Lil' Bugger (1/2 Little Nipper, 1/2 Bug) translates wierdly from American to Kiwi but it's a fun plane (see LN photo section). http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/littlenipper/lst?.dir=/Lil% 27+Bugger&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/ Enjoy! Chris in Seattle, USA --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@x> wrote: > I think I will try to make the parts myself, since this will be good > exercise anyway. I would appreciate it if you can give me some > pointers, since this is my 1st scratch built (I fly EPP slopers). > > I actually have made 1 set of wing but I am really unhappy about it > so I am going to remake it. The problems I have encountered are: > > 1. The notch for the LE dowel - how can I cut this accurately? > Inaccuracies have led to the dowel not sitting on the same horizontal > plane) with the spar (is this normal?) and one of the ribs needing > some lengthening for it to reach the LE. I presume if properly made > the LE, spar and TE will lie on the same horizontal plane? The crappy > wing set I have is obviously twisted. > > 2. The root rib dihedral angle. At first glance it appears simple but > once the two wing halves are made the two sides don't seem to meet > each other too well. I tried to sand the root rib with a block / bar > sander but really the results are not too good. I wonder what are the > tricks necessary to achieve a perfect wing joint with the right > dihedral. What's worst, when I was trying to sand the wing halves I > manage to damage them - hence new set of wings needed. > > 3. Related to 2 - I guess problem 2 can be solved if I can cut > correct bevels top and bottom of the root rib? But how can that be > achieved? > > 4. Wing center sheeting. Because of W1 being slanted the sheeting > does not want to sit flat esp in the front part. > > 5. It may sound silly but how do you keep the ribs parallel during > your construction, esp during the LE glueing? > > 6. What tool do you use to cut that perfect lightening hole in the > wing tip? Also would a laminate of 2 1/16" tip works better than a > single 1/8" tip? > > I think if I am not too picky most of the above problems will > probably be ok as long as they are symmetrical, except the center > wing joint which I just cannot get right! > > > Thanks for any suggestions > > Henry

Henry - Are you building from the full size plans? Is so, there's a dihedral gauge that I copied and pasted to a scrap of balsa to get my R1 angle correct. I always install this rib last and make sure the angle is just right. For the LE notch, I bought a 1/8" rat-tail file and use it to form a perfect notch every time. Here's my wing building method. Keep in mind that I add an extra R3 every time, so none of the printed spar holes are in the right place except the first and last rib, so I drill them one at a time. 1. Photo copy the rib forms and cut out with scissors (Make an extra R3) 2. Spray with 3M 77 and attach to balsa sheet. 3. Rough cut each rib and sand to exact shape following photcopy lines. 4. Use file to make LE 1/2 round notch. 5. Mark trailing edge with rib spacing and attach to board w/tape. 6. Mark and drill spar hole in R2 and R7. Peel paper pattern off. 7. Glue R2 in place at TE and spar (I always run spar all the way to the end of the tip plate if you plan to SAL). 8. Slide R7 onto spar, do not glue. 9. For each internal rib, I lay it in place, mark the spar location, drill spar hole and then install (removing and reinstalling R7 each time). I glue the TE and the spar hole only, leaving the LE until the wing is built. Use a square gauge to make sure the ribs are staight. 10. Once the wing half is built, I glue on the tip plate. I use 1/8" balsa w/o lightening holes since I grab the tip for SAL. I usually have to file a groove for the spar at the tip so that the bottom surfaces of R7 and the tip plate line up. 11. Install R1 using the dihedral gauge. Remove from board and sand top and bottom of R1 flat to the other ribs w/sanding block. 12. Starting at R1, lay the 1/8" dowel LE into the notches and secure with CA. 13. Trim dowel at tip as shown and sand to fine bevel. Fill tip with light contest balsa and sand to match airfoil. This makes a good thumb grip for SAL. Do both sides for balance and leftie/rightie capability. 14. Install sheeting at R1-R2. 15. Harden edge of tip balsa with thin CA to prevent dings. 16. Repeat 1-15 for other wing. 17. Glue halves, reincorce w/FG 18. Cover. Different builders will have different methods, so take these steps as a guideline. I've built many of these wings and have had no problems at all (my first plane is still flying in it's second season with my kids learning to fly on this plane last year). They all turn out true and flat and any minor twists can be dealt with when covering. This is a great little plane. You'll enjoy it. I always use a cruciform tail and get nice straight launches w/o preset or mixing to 50-75 feet. I use a modified plastic pod and call mine a Lil' Bugger (1/2 Little Nipper, 1/2 Bug) translates wierdly from American to Kiwi but it's a fun plane (see LN photo section). http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/littlenipper/lst?.dir=/Lil% 27+Bugger&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/ Enjoy! Chris in Seattle, USA --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@x> wrote: > I think I will try to make the parts myself, since this will be good > exercise anyway. I would appreciate it if you can give me some > pointers, since this is my 1st scratch built (I fly EPP slopers). > > I actually have made 1 set of wing but I am really unhappy about it > so I am going to remake it. The problems I have encountered are: > > 1. The notch for the LE dowel - how can I cut this accurately? > Inaccuracies have led to the dowel not sitting on the same horizontal > plane) with the spar (is this normal?) and one of the ribs needing > some lengthening for it to reach the LE. I presume if properly made > the LE, spar and TE will lie on the same horizontal plane? The crappy > wing set I have is obviously twisted. > > 2. The root rib dihedral angle. At first glance it appears simple but > once the two wing halves are made the two sides don't seem to meet > each other too well. I tried to sand the root rib with a block / bar > sander but really the results are not too good. I wonder what are the > tricks necessary to achieve a perfect wing joint with the right > dihedral. What's worst, when I was trying to sand the wing halves I > manage to damage them - hence new set of wings needed. > > 3. Related to 2 - I guess problem 2 can be solved if I can cut > correct bevels top and bottom of the root rib? But how can that be > achieved? > > 4. Wing center sheeting. Because of W1 being slanted the sheeting > does not want to sit flat esp in the front part. > > 5. It may sound silly but how do you keep the ribs parallel during > your construction, esp during the LE glueing? > > 6. What tool do you use to cut that perfect lightening hole in the > wing tip? Also would a laminate of 2 1/16" tip works better than a > single 1/8" tip? > > I think if I am not too picky most of the above problems will > probably be ok as long as they are symmetrical, except the center > wing joint which I just cannot get right! > > > Thanks for any suggestions > > Henry

Henry - Are you building from the full size plans? Is so, there's a dihedral gauge that I copied and pasted to a scrap of balsa to get my R1 angle correct. I always install this rib last and make sure the angle is just right. For the LE notch, I bought a 1/8" rat-tail file and use it to form a perfect notch every time. Here's my wing building method. Keep in mind that I add an extra R3 every time, so none of the printed spar holes are in the right place except the first and last rib, so I drill them one at a time. 1. Photo copy the rib forms and cut out with scissors (Make an extra R3) 2. Spray with 3M 77 and attach to balsa sheet. 3. Rough cut each rib and sand to exact shape following photcopy lines. 4. Use file to make LE 1/2 round notch. 5. Mark trailing edge with rib spacing and attach to board w/tape. 6. Mark and drill spar hole in R2 and R7. Peel paper pattern off. 7. Glue R2 in place at TE and spar (I always run spar all the way to the end of the tip plate if you plan to SAL). 8. Slide R7 onto spar, do not glue. 9. For each internal rib, I lay it in place, mark the spar location, drill spar hole and then install (removing and reinstalling R7 each time). I glue the TE and the spar hole only, leaving the LE until the wing is built. Use a square gauge to make sure the ribs are staight. 10. Once the wing half is built, I glue on the tip plate. I use 1/8" balsa w/o lightening holes since I grab the tip for SAL. I usually have to file a groove for the spar at the tip so that the bottom surfaces of R7 and the tip plate line up. 11. Install R1 using the dihedral gauge. Remove from board and sand top and bottom of R1 flat to the other ribs w/sanding block. 12. Starting at R1, lay the 1/8" dowel LE into the notches and secure with CA. 13. Trim dowel at tip as shown and sand to fine bevel. Fill tip with light contest balsa and sand to match airfoil. This makes a good thumb grip for SAL. Do both sides for balance and leftie/rightie capability. 14. Install sheeting at R1-R2. 15. Harden edge of tip balsa with thin CA to prevent dings. 16. Repeat 1-15 for other wing. 17. Glue halves, reincorce w/FG 18. Cover. Different builders will have different methods, so take these steps as a guideline. I've built many of these wings and have had no problems at all (my first plane is still flying in it's second season with my kids learning to fly on this plane last year). They all turn out true and flat and any minor twists can be dealt with when covering. This is a great little plane. You'll enjoy it. I always use a cruciform tail and get nice straight launches w/o preset or mixing to 50-75 feet. I use a modified plastic pod and call mine a Lil' Bugger (1/2 Little Nipper, 1/2 Bug) translates wierdly from American to Kiwi but it's a fun plane (see LN photo section). http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/littlenipper/lst?.dir=/Lil% 27+Bugger&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/ Enjoy! Chris in Seattle, USA --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@x> wrote: > I think I will try to make the parts myself, since this will be good > exercise anyway. I would appreciate it if you can give me some > pointers, since this is my 1st scratch built (I fly EPP slopers). > > I actually have made 1 set of wing but I am really unhappy about it > so I am going to remake it. The problems I have encountered are: > > 1. The notch for the LE dowel - how can I cut this accurately? > Inaccuracies have led to the dowel not sitting on the same horizontal > plane) with the spar (is this normal?) and one of the ribs needing > some lengthening for it to reach the LE. I presume if properly made > the LE, spar and TE will lie on the same horizontal plane? The crappy > wing set I have is obviously twisted. > > 2. The root rib dihedral angle. At first glance it appears simple but > once the two wing halves are made the two sides don't seem to meet > each other too well. I tried to sand the root rib with a block / bar > sander but really the results are not too good. I wonder what are the > tricks necessary to achieve a perfect wing joint with the right > dihedral. What's worst, when I was trying to sand the wing halves I > manage to damage them - hence new set of wings needed. > > 3. Related to 2 - I guess problem 2 can be solved if I can cut > correct bevels top and bottom of the root rib? But how can that be > achieved? > > 4. Wing center sheeting. Because of W1 being slanted the sheeting > does not want to sit flat esp in the front part. > > 5. It may sound silly but how do you keep the ribs parallel during > your construction, esp during the LE glueing? > > 6. What tool do you use to cut that perfect lightening hole in the > wing tip? Also would a laminate of 2 1/16" tip works better than a > single 1/8" tip? > > I think if I am not too picky most of the above problems will > probably be ok as long as they are symmetrical, except the center > wing joint which I just cannot get right! > > > Thanks for any suggestions > > Henry

Hi Henry Sorry about your problems. I make a copy of the plans and cut the rib templates just a bit large. Then I used a glue stick to attach the rib templates to the balsa. I cut the ribs rough with a hobby knife and then sanded then with a one foot sanding bar. I used a rat tail file to file in the LE radius and a small drill to do the hole. I pinned everything to a building board so when I tack the LE rod on the first few ribs everything is solid. Then I hit it with some thick CA and let it dry for a good anchor. After that I pin the wing tip end in place and glue the rest of the ribs. That seems to work for me. I also make two (2) double jigs (you need four pieces) for the root rib angle. I glue a small block of balsa between two and end up with two block that I can pin to the board and it will stay in place. With two jigs (one in front and one in back I have not had a problem with the angle. Good luck and keep building. John P.S. I have not seen a source for kits or pods. I would buy one if I found it. I am thinking of trying an Art Hobby fuse for the bug. I think someone has a deal with a laser cutting bussiness to cut ribs but I do not know who and am not sure if it is ok with the designer. --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@x> wrote: > I think I will try to make the parts myself, since this will be good > exercise anyway. I would appreciate it if you can give me some > pointers, since this is my 1st scratch built (I fly EPP slopers). > > I actually have made 1 set of wing but I am really unhappy about it > so I am going to remake it. The problems I have encountered are: > > 1. The notch for the LE dowel - how can I cut this accurately? > Inaccuracies have led to the dowel not sitting on the same horizontal > plane) with the spar (is this normal?) and one of the ribs needing > some lengthening for it to reach the LE. I presume if properly made > the LE, spar and TE will lie on the same horizontal plane? The crappy > wing set I have is obviously twisted. > > 2. The root rib dihedral angle. At first glance it appears simple but > once the two wing halves are made the two sides don't seem to meet > each other too well. I tried to sand the root rib with a block / bar > sander but really the results are not too good. I wonder what are the > tricks necessary to achieve a perfect wing joint with the right > dihedral. What's worst, when I was trying to sand the wing halves I > manage to damage them - hence new set of wings needed. > > 3. Related to 2 - I guess problem 2 can be solved if I can cut > correct bevels top and bottom of the root rib? But how can that be > achieved? > > 4. Wing center sheeting. Because of W1 being slanted the sheeting > does not want to sit flat esp in the front part. > > 5. It may sound silly but how do you keep the ribs parallel during > your construction, esp during the LE glueing? > > 6. What tool do you use to cut that perfect lightening hole in the > wing tip? Also would a laminate of 2 1/16" tip works better than a > single 1/8" tip? > > I think if I am not too picky most of the above problems will > probably be ok as long as they are symmetrical, except the center > wing joint which I just cannot get right! > > > Thanks for any suggestions > > Henry

I think I will try to make the parts myself, since this will be good exercise anyway. I would appreciate it if you can give me some pointers, since this is my 1st scratch built (I fly EPP slopers). I actually have made 1 set of wing but I am really unhappy about it so I am going to remake it. The problems I have encountered are: 1. The notch for the LE dowel - how can I cut this accurately? Inaccuracies have led to the dowel not sitting on the same horizontal plane) with the spar (is this normal?) and one of the ribs needing some lengthening for it to reach the LE. I presume if properly made the LE, spar and TE will lie on the same horizontal plane? The crappy wing set I have is obviously twisted. 2. The root rib dihedral angle. At first glance it appears simple but once the two wing halves are made the two sides don't seem to meet each other too well. I tried to sand the root rib with a block / bar sander but really the results are not too good. I wonder what are the tricks necessary to achieve a perfect wing joint with the right dihedral. What's worst, when I was trying to sand the wing halves I manage to damage them - hence new set of wings needed. 3. Related to 2 - I guess problem 2 can be solved if I can cut correct bevels top and bottom of the root rib? But how can that be achieved? 4. Wing center sheeting. Because of W1 being slanted the sheeting does not want to sit flat esp in the front part. 5. It may sound silly but how do you keep the ribs parallel during your construction, esp during the LE glueing? 6. What tool do you use to cut that perfect lightening hole in the wing tip? Also would a laminate of 2 1/16" tip works better than a single 1/8" tip? I think if I am not too picky most of the above problems will probably be ok as long as they are symmetrical, except the center wing joint which I just cannot get right! Thanks for any suggestions Henry