Bug HLG

Frustrated, How much warp are you talking about? If it is within reason then your covering could be enough to pull it back to back where you want it. The way I did my ribs was by eyeball also. I started with R1 and R7 in place and then I put a straight edge across the layout and marked on the top of the rest of the ribs. Then I used the rib templates to get the vertical position correct for drilling the hole. It seemed to work out fine. John --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@x> wrote: > Hi > > THE MAILSERVER SAYS there is delivery error, something about bcc not > allowed. I don't know how this happens... > > I just scrapped a set of extended wings I have made because of some > twist I managed to build in, despite using a building board to pin > everything down :( Wasted a whole day of work > > With everything pinned down the build seems to proceed quite smoothly > but once the pins are removed the wing warps (as in it won't sit flat > on the surface, which it should if built true because the back- ends > of the ribs are flat) > > I suspect the reason for the warp was because of the CF spar > placement not being perfect. Because the spar holes are different > from stock, I had to estimate their positions as I built - and I > think that the warpping was due to accumulative error in the hole > placement. > > What I have done was to have R1 and R7 fixed and the rod running > between them, and estimated the positions of each hole by placing it > next to the spar. > > I wonder what your experience is and what tips you can give me to > avoid the same thing from happening again. > > Also re: rib R1. If you slant it at an angle isn't this going to make > it stand shorter esp if you bevel the edges? I wonder if this > contributed to the warp. Is there any point using a thicker rib R1 > and standing it straight up, and then sanding the root surface to the > correct dihedral later only after the wing is built? Just wondering... > > Frustrated.