Repost - The best method to make an extended wing and R1? - Thread

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Repost - The best method to make an extended wing and R1?

From: "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@...>
Date: Monday, September 1, 2003 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: Repost - The best method to make an extended wing and R1?

--- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, frans.biemans@w... wrote: > I had the same problem wen I made an extended wing 100 cm. I managed to solve > it with the covering (ora cover light). > Today I've made the first tes flight's wth the Bug (100 cm). Made an super > flight of 2.06 minutes. This flight wasn't from a hand launch. I've launched > it with a string of rubber bands (the smal ones yuo use in the office). > ok. I guess this solve the problem of warping. sounds like it is a common occurence. The warping occur near the root. All the ribs R3-R7 stand flat on the board pretty much, but when they do R1/R2 are lifted off the board (and vice versa). This is why I suspect the position of R1 might have something to do with it... The other problem with R1 of course is the dihedral angle. Even with very careful sanding the roots do not really match perfectly, which is a shame... This is why I asked about the possibility of using thicker balsa for R1 and then sanding them AFTER the wing is finished. Cheers Henry

From: frans.biemans@...
Date: Sunday, August 31, 2003 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: [BugHLG] Re: Repost - The best method to make an extended wing and R1?

I had the same problem wen I made an extended wing 100 cm. I managed to solve it with the covering (ora cover light). Today I've made the first tes flight's wth the Bug (100 cm). Made an super flight of 2.06 minutes. This flight wasn't from a hand launch. I've launched it with a string of rubber bands (the smal ones yuo use in the office). Cyja Frans > <html><body> > > > <tt> > Frustrated, > > How much warp are you talking about? If it is within reason then > your covering could be enough to pull it back to back where you want > it. The way I did my ribs was by eyeball also. I started with R1 and > R7 in place and then I put a straight edge across the layout and > marked on the top of the rest of the ribs. Then I used the rib > templates to get the vertical position correct for drilling the > hole. It seemed to work out fine. > > John > > > > > --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@x> > wrote: > > Hi > > > > THE MAILSERVER SAYS there is delivery error, something about bcc > not > > allowed. I don't know how this happens... > > > > I just scrapped a set of extended wings I have made because of > some > > twist I managed to build in, despite using a building board to pin > > > everything down :( Wasted a whole day of work > > > > With everything pinned down the build seems to proceed quite > smoothly > > but once the pins are removed the wing warps (as in it won't sit > flat > > on the surface, which it should if built true because the back- > ends > > of the ribs are flat) > > > > I suspect the reason for the warp was because of the CF spar > > placement not being perfect. Because the spar holes are different > > from stock, I had to estimate their positions as I built - and I > > think that the warpping was due to accumulative error in the hole > > placement. > > > > What I have done was to have R1 and R7 fixed and the rod running > > between them, and estimated the positions of each hole by placing > it > > next to the spar. > > > > I wonder what your experience is and what tips you can give me to > > avoid the same thing from happening again. > > > > Also re: rib R1. If you slant it at an angle isn't this going to > make > > it stand shorter esp if you bevel the edges? I wonder if this > > contributed to the warp. Is there any point using a thicker rib R1 > > > and standing it straight up, and then sanding the root surface to > the > > correct dihedral later only after the wing is built? Just > wondering... > > > > Frustrated. > > </tt> > > > >  > > <table border=0 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2> > <tr bgcolor=#FFFFCC> > <td align=center>Yahoo! Groups > Sponsor</td> > </tr> > <tr bgcolor=#FFFFFF> > <td align=center width=470><table border=0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0> <tr> > <td align=center>ADVERTISEMENT <a > href="http://rd.yahoo.com/M=259538.3793308.5048975.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=170537 0808:HM/A=1712983/R=0/SIG=11u38u3s2/*http://hits.411web.com/cgi-bin/hit? page=1374-105951838331032" > alt=""><img > src="http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/sl/sleepangel/sleep_300x250.gif" > alt="click here" width="300" height="250" border="0"></a></td></tr></table> > </td> > </tr> > <tr><td><img alt="" width=1 height=1 > src="http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l? M=259538.3793308.5048975.1261774/D=egroupmail/S=:HM/A=1712983/rand=283987201">< /td></tr> > </table> > >  > > > > <tt> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > BugHLG-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > Home Page - <a > href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BugHLG/">http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BugH LG/</a> > > </tt> > > > > <tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a > href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms of Service</a>.</tt> > > > </body></html> > > > __________________________________________________________ http://www.wanadoo.nl/

From: "John Gospodarek" <John.Gospodarek@...>
Date: Sunday, August 31, 2003 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: Repost - The best method to make an extended wing and R1?

Frustrated, How much warp are you talking about? If it is within reason then your covering could be enough to pull it back to back where you want it. The way I did my ribs was by eyeball also. I started with R1 and R7 in place and then I put a straight edge across the layout and marked on the top of the rest of the ribs. Then I used the rib templates to get the vertical position correct for drilling the hole. It seemed to work out fine. John --- In BugHLG@yahoogroups.com, "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@x> wrote: > Hi > > THE MAILSERVER SAYS there is delivery error, something about bcc not > allowed. I don't know how this happens... > > I just scrapped a set of extended wings I have made because of some > twist I managed to build in, despite using a building board to pin > everything down :( Wasted a whole day of work > > With everything pinned down the build seems to proceed quite smoothly > but once the pins are removed the wing warps (as in it won't sit flat > on the surface, which it should if built true because the back- ends > of the ribs are flat) > > I suspect the reason for the warp was because of the CF spar > placement not being perfect. Because the spar holes are different > from stock, I had to estimate their positions as I built - and I > think that the warpping was due to accumulative error in the hole > placement. > > What I have done was to have R1 and R7 fixed and the rod running > between them, and estimated the positions of each hole by placing it > next to the spar. > > I wonder what your experience is and what tips you can give me to > avoid the same thing from happening again. > > Also re: rib R1. If you slant it at an angle isn't this going to make > it stand shorter esp if you bevel the edges? I wonder if this > contributed to the warp. Is there any point using a thicker rib R1 > and standing it straight up, and then sanding the root surface to the > correct dihedral later only after the wing is built? Just wondering... > > Frustrated.

From: "dimple_kwok" <henry.kwok@...>
Date: Saturday, August 30, 2003 3:48 PM
Subject: Repost - The best method to make an extended wing and R1?

Hi THE MAILSERVER SAYS there is delivery error, something about bcc not allowed. I don't know how this happens... I just scrapped a set of extended wings I have made because of some twist I managed to build in, despite using a building board to pin everything down :( Wasted a whole day of work With everything pinned down the build seems to proceed quite smoothly but once the pins are removed the wing warps (as in it won't sit flat on the surface, which it should if built true because the back-ends of the ribs are flat) I suspect the reason for the warp was because of the CF spar placement not being perfect. Because the spar holes are different from stock, I had to estimate their positions as I built - and I think that the warpping was due to accumulative error in the hole placement. What I have done was to have R1 and R7 fixed and the rod running between them, and estimated the positions of each hole by placing it next to the spar. I wonder what your experience is and what tips you can give me to avoid the same thing from happening again. Also re: rib R1. If you slant it at an angle isn't this going to make it stand shorter esp if you bevel the edges? I wonder if this contributed to the warp. Is there any point using a thicker rib R1 and standing it straight up, and then sanding the root surface to the correct dihedral later only after the wing is built? Just wondering... Frustrated.